By Deb van de Water (widowbadass.com)

As I sit down to write this blog, I’m excited to return to Pacific Sounds Lodge later this year to once again join the Stars & Sea Stars – A One-of-a-Kind Snorkelling & Astronomy Experience Signature Retreat.

In May 2024, I was lucky enough to find out about Pacific Sounds Lodge through a social media post. In January of that year, I had come across Sara Ellison’s book Snorkelling Adventures Around Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands and was looking to get into exploring the area’s rich waters.

I was delighted to discover that Pacific Sounds was going to be hosting Sara and her husband, Dr. Jon Willis, both professors of astronomy at the University of Victoria, for a multi-day stay experience called Stars & Sea Stars. I would get to snorkel with these experts during the day and have them educate me about the night sky in the evenings! After a couple conversations with the lodge co-owner and host, Scott Wallace, I was booked and counting the days until my departure in early October.

The new-to-me drive from Port Alberni to Bamfield was spectacular. I came across only a couple of other vehicles on my journey along this newly paved logging access road. I felt like I had it almost entirely to myself. There was no cell service, and my GPS had no idea this road existed, but it was well-marked, so I wasn’t worried.

After that relaxing 90-minute drive, I arrived in East Bamfield and brought my luggage and gear to the dock as instructed. Here I met most of the other guests (aka my new best friends!) for this stay as we awaited Scott’s arrival with the Zodiac to take us to Pacific Sounds Lodge in West Bamfield.

I was paired with a very lovely lady from Chemainus, British Columbia as my roomie for our stay. Our room was large and comfortable, and the ensuite bathroom was well-appointed with heavenly-smelling local soap, shampoo, and conditioner.

Shortly after arriving at Pacific Sounds I asked Scott if there was an agenda or schedule that would be followed each day. He replied that at breakfast each morning he would provide us with a list and time for activities based on the day’s weather, tides and people’s interests. We would be free to join, or we could do our own thing. A show of hands was needed for certain activities that were limited by gear availability or space, and those would be repeated throughout the day so that all 13 of us could partake if we wanted (e.g. kayaking, Zodiac excursions). I really appreciated the easy-breezy casualness of it all! It relaxed me immediately.

Each day went something like this:

6:30 am – Cold breakfast (granola, yogurt, fruit bowl) was set out by the beverage station (always stocked with coffee, tea, cold beverages, and 3 jars kept topped up with homemade cookies!)
8:30 am – Hot breakfast is served
Morning activities
12:00 pm – Lunch is served
Afternoon activities
At some point in the afternoon, delicious snacks (like the Pacific Sounds flapjack bars!) magically appeared at the beverage station.
5:00 pm – Appetizers were laid out. Did I mention the cold drinks at the beverage station included beers and coolers as well as soft/non-alcoholic drinks? Wine was also available upon request.
6:00 pm – Dinner is served, with a choice of two wines. Usually accompanied by Scott entertaining us with some of his vast knowledge of the area and its history, plus some suggestions for our group as to how the following day could unfold, activity-wise.
Evening – various activities depending on weather, availability of people (e.g. outdoor talks on the night sky, musical entertainment or subject experts brought in, etc.).

Some people started their day at the property’s natural cold plunge pool, followed by a visit to the Pacific Sounds’ steam shower or hot tub.

Shore Walk

On the first morning, Scott took us on a low-tide walk right outside the Lodge, showing us the natural wonders at our feet and explaining the intertidal ecosystem in a way that was funny and immediately graspable.

We saw so many beautiful sea stars on this walk, as well as many crustaceans and other sea life.

Kayaking

The Lodge has six kayaks for guest use. A guide must accompany you if you want to leave the inlet (insurance requirement); otherwise, you can take them out when you like and explore the inlet on your own.

Snorkelling

Pacific Sounds provides a full range of gear for snorkelers who didn’t bring their own. All 13 of us geared up and went into the water at the same time – from the youngest among us up to the octogenarians!

Here is a photo of (almost) all of us, ready to explore the underwater world just a few steps away. Sara Ellison is in the front wearing the red weight belt, her husband Jon Willis is behind her.

While our days were spent in and on the water, the clear nights were for observing the skies while listening to Sara and Jon talk about the universe and explain what we were seeing. On the not-so-clear night, we were treated to the most wonderful private concert in the great room by local folk duo Aloysius. Another option for guests at Pacific Sounds was a tour of the local waters, hosted by Scott. I was lucky enough to get to experience two of these! During these excursions, Scott shared his knowledge of the area, pointing out ancient village sites and, of course, the local flora and fauna. Including whales! Humpback whales were spotted on every boat ride!

On my first day in Bamfield, Scott guided me on a walk to Brady’s Beach and I enjoyed it so much I went back on my own later.

The Meals

Five-star dining at every turn! Chef Jeanne Rankin, ably assisted by fellow staffers Sara and Abi, stunned me at each meal – first with the beautifully set table, and then with the unbelievably delicious food and free-flowing wine. This is not what I had previously experienced from other lodges I have been to. Yes, I was expecting good, tasty food, but not of this calibre! Out. Of. This. World.

The evening’s menu was up on the screen in late afternoon, to get the taste buds salivating. At each meal, I thought nothing could possibly top that night’s menu, and at each subsequent meal I was proven delightfully wrong.

When the sun came out on our last afternoon, everyone naturally migrated to the front deck to bask there after the day’s activities. Sara Ellison took this photo of us enjoying cocktail & appie hour on the deck for our final afternoon at Pacific Sounds.

On our final night at the Lodge, sea urchins were harvested so Scott could prepare uni for us to try. It doesn’t get fresher than this, folks!

The final evening’s meal absolutely blew my mind. I didn’t think anything could top rack of lamb for me, but this meal certainly did.

Scott, Jeanne, Sara and Abi – I can’t thank you enough for the magic that you do and I am once again happily counting down the days until I see you again.

To my fellow guests in this special moment in time – thank you for your open-heartedness, warm support, and all of the exhilarating, stimulating conversations I was privileged to be a part of. Extra special thanks to Sara and Jon, for being so giving of their vast knowledge and experience of the Stars & Sea Stars!

Cheers to an amazing stay, experiencing spectacular nature, and meeting so many vibrant and interesting people! I can’t wait for the 2025 Signature Retreat!